Hot Waxing by Lydia Jordan

How to prepare Hot Wax: 

Heat wax in wax warmer with adjustable temperature control.  It is best to heat the wax on the highest temperature, for say 15 minutes or longer, then turn it down to cool to a working temperature.  

Some heaters heat to 90C, 95C, 110C, 120C even 160C and anywhere in between.  They are all OK, you just need to know what your heater is capable of and adjust the heating process accordingly.  

It depends on the heater temperature levels and the amount of wax you have in the heater, as to how long you need to initially melt the wax for.  

High heat does not generally damage the wax, it is in fact good to heat the wax regularly to a high temperature, in order to disinfect the wax and to unify the consistency, as dust particles can land in the wax while you are using it.   

Once wax is melted, turn it down to where the heater will maintain the right working temperature which for hot wax is about 55C or 130F. 

The working temperature of a quality wax can be easily maintained and be comfortable, because a quality wax does not retain heat to create discomfort and problems.   

To allow for variables in your client’s sensitivity to heat, it is important to use a quality hot wax that can be used at a slightly lower or a slightly higher temperature. 

It depends on the therapist’s technique and how fast they are in taking the wax from the heater to how long it takes them to actually apply it to the skin.   

Meaning that wax, once taken out of a heater will begin to cool. So the longer you hover over the area to be waxes, the cooler the wax will be, which can reduce the grip of the wax, as the grip begins as soon as the wax starts to cool.   

If the wax is too hot, the fastest and easiest way to cool the wax is to add some cold wax to the heater which will cool down the melted wax more quickly. If the wax is too hot, it will burn the skin, which can result in skin being pulled off as wax is removed.  

To make sure wax is not too hot, always test it on your inner wrist.   If wax is too hot, make sure it cools down before using it on the client.  It is better to be safe than sorry!  

Burnt skin is not a good thing, it will be red and become pigmented while its healing, which can take many weeks.  Sometimes the pigmentation never goes away.       

 Why do you need to protect the skin during waxing?

 Skin has a natural layer of dead skin cells, which add some natural skin protection.  When we apply hot wax to the skin, it needs to set and shrink wrap the hair, so the hair can be removed, when a wax patch is pulled off the skin.  

While the wax shrink wraps the hair in order to hold onto it, the wax will also tighten on the skin itself.  

It is therefore important to protect the skin, so that the wax will not be able to stick to the skin more than just a little, so that the skin will not be peeled off by the wax on removal.   

While wax patches are removed, you will also remove a fine layer of dead skin cells, which in turn exposes newer skin sooner than usual. 

As a result waxing mildly exfoliates the skin as you wax, making it very important to protect the skin before and during any waxing treatment, with hot wax or strip wax for that matter.  

 It is very important to prepare the skin as well as protect it during waxing with a suitable pre-waxing oil, so you do not remove more dead cells than just enough and certainly to not remove freshly exposed new skin, once some dead cells have been removed.  

This is a standard requirement when hot waxing regardless if the skin is sensitive, thin or not.  

If skin is not protected with a pre-waxing oil, newly exposed skin can be removed, which can result in swelling, bruising, redness and pigmentation will develop.   

How to prepare and protect the skin before hot waxing: 

Cleanse skin with a gentle and effective skin cleanser.  Just pump some skin cleaner onto a cotton pad and wipe well over the skin where you are going to wax.  

A suitable skin cleanser needs to be mild, not sting or burn. One that you can use anywhere on the face and body.   

A very good ingredient to look for in a pre and post waxing skin cleanser is Pirocone Olamine, which is a hospital grade disinfectant for skin.   

It is gentle and will help cleanse and freshen up the skin from any cream residue, pollution, grime, perspiration, even makeup, making sure it does not get into the eyes. 

 If there is bleeding during waxing, which can happen on the Brazilian, underarms or other areas with strong hair growth, you need to be able to use the same skin cleanser to wipe the blood off, without stinging or irritation.  

With a quality skin cleanser, it will help cool the skin down, shrink the follicles so the bleeding stops faster, reapply some pre-waxing oil and continue waxing. 

Does the pre-waxing oil provide any other benefits? 

If you use the right oil blend with good quality aromatherapy, a pre-waxing oil will help to pre soothe the skin before wax application.  

Apart from preventing the wax from sticking to skin, a quality pre-waxing oil will help relax the follicles and calm the skin so the hairs will come out a lot easier, minimising pain during waxing.  

It simply makes for better hot waxing when you use a quality pre-waxing oil.   Some beneficial ingredients to this effect are Jasmine and Apricot Oil. 

Can you or should you use a pre-waxing oil when strip waxing? 

If you use a quality strip wax that is not sticky, you do not need to use anything, not even talc or corn starch before strip wax application.  

You just cleanse the skin with a skin cleanser, make sure the skin is dry and go ahead to apply the strip wax and remove it.   A quality strip wax will not leave sticky residue on the skin.

 What to use when waxing is done: 

Once all the hair has been removed, apply a suitable and gentle skin cleanser with a cotton pad on the waxed areas, which will disinfect the skin, close the hair follicles, so no undesirables can enter the empty follicles. 

Then apply a light film of a suitable light lotion with soothing and protective properties.  A very good one would contain Tea Tree Oil, which is very protective against harmful bacteria entering the follicles.  

Lycon wax is distributed in New Zealand by House of Camille